MILEAGE GAINS are one of the
main reasons for consideration of getting a
programmed ECU. The main reasons you and your
car will get poor mileage
is because of the following:
1. Driving faster than the speed limit.
The drag co-efficient of
the larger passenger car or truck of today still
isn't fantastic. Therefore it requires more
horsepower (and fuel) to displace air as you
drive down the highway. It has been said that
the difference between 55 MPH and 70 MPH can be
20% of your fuel costs. Frontal area is a very
key factor in mileage and performance--just ask
your NASCAR crew chief... yes, you will get
better mileage if you follow that semi-trailer
too closely, but that's not exactly a smart
thing to do.
MYTHBUSTERS YOUTUBE
VIDEO
2. Tire inflation pressures incorrect.
Although the manufacturer
often recommends inflation pressures of a lower
value, it requires more horsepower to roll a
lower inflated tire down the road. You'll find
that increasing inflation pressures so you get a
more even tread wear pattern on your tire will
also indicate the best 'tire contact' to the
ground. Tires that wear more on the inside AND
outside of the tread pattern indicate under
inflation. A wear pattern in the centre of the
tire indicates over inflation --but the mileage
gains may offset tire replacement cost.
You want good tire contact
across the tread, without increasing TOTAL tire
contact patch to the ground. The greater the
contact patch -- the more friction -- the more
heat -- the more total energy lost.
3. Engine state of tune.
If you can't remember when
you replaced your spark plugs or air filter--you
may want to give them your attention. Stay away
from 'fancy' plugs...all a spark plug does is
provide a gap for the spark. Improper "spark
plug reach" can inhibit mileage as much as
30%...so make sure the spark plug you buy was
intended for the specific application. If there
are any doubts--consult an application guide for
your specific engine. The 8th digit in your VIN
number identifies the engine family. A plugged
air filter hurts performance...and if your
vehicle has a MAF sensor, when you make it flow
better--it'll actually use more fuel. So be
conscious of your choices with FIPK retrofit
kits or other inlet modifications.
4. Wheel Alignment.
An alignment problem can
be the equivalent of dragging your car sideways
down the highway a couple of feet for every
couple miles of driving. A real good indicator
of alignment problems are the front tires.
Here's a quick and simple test. Get a tire
crayon and 'color' a 1" wide strip across the
front of your tire from inside to outside. Do
the same on the other front tire. Drive in a
straight line for 100 feet (pavement or
concrete) without turning your steering wheel .
If the crayon is already scrubbed off the
tire--you may want to consider a wheel
alignment. This little test in no way indicates
a proper alignment--but would indicate improper
'toe' alignment, which is the #1 tire wearing
angle. This Toe check indicates if your tires
are |//
---
\\| toe in or
|\\
---
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toe out
in relation to each other. Because of the
complexity of today's automotive
suspensions--take the vehicle to the experts. Do
not attempt to adjust anything yourself. Insist
on a 4-wheel alignment for a FWD car -- and a
thrust align, or two wheel alignment for a rear
wheel drive solid rear axle vehicle.
5. Cold driving -- Warm up.
There is no 'real'
advantage to fully warming up your engine before
driving, other than using more fuel. This also
applies to extended idling, etc...it's all
wasted fuel. Try to consolidate trips to the
store, school, work, errands....careful planning
and execution of a route can safe fuel (and a
lot of unnecessary mileage). Driving like you
stole the vehicle will never help mileage--drive
your vehicle like you've got an egg between your
foot and the gas pedal...accelerate slowly.
6. Incorrect tire size.
When you install a larger
tire than what was original to the vehicle, you
are actually requiring the engine to develop
even MORE torque to maintain rolling resistance
down the highway. Although we can correct the
speedometer and odometer--don't expect mileage
gains.
7. Decrease AIR!!
This flies in the face of
what is sold out there today, but if you can
decrease the amount of air entering the engine
(due to the fact that this is a closed loop
system as of 1996 OBD2) you will use less fuel,
too. Ideally, you want to maintain the same
horsepower required to combat air friction,
rolling mass losses, etc...but do it with LESS
AIR !!
Let me
illustrate. A closed loop system maintains the
air fuel ratio at 14.7 lbs air to 1 lb of fuel.
This is maintained for idle, cruise and in some
cases, even at wide open throttle.
If
you have 60 grams/sec air entering the engine at
cruise, you're using 4.08 grams of fuel per
second. If the cylinder pressures are increased
without creating harmful exhaust by-products, or
if these by-products are controlled by the
catalytic converter, we can gain mileage by
decreasing airflow through the engine while
enhancing the spark curve to maintain the same
rear wheel HP.
On the chassis dyno, we
can get vehicles down to 45-50 grams air/sec
maintaining the same air fuel ratio, and same
wheel HP as stock--and the overall result is
less fuel consumed ! 45 g/secs works out to 3.06
g/fuel used in the same time period--or an
almost 25% saving. We can't gain this in all
vehicles of course--this example was resultant
data from a 2007 6.0L HD 3500 GM truck.
This flies in the face of
every aftermarket product out there claiming
that it saves fuel--you will never gain mileage
by increasing airflow through a gasoline engine
in a mass airflow type system.
Because we carefully remap
the spark curve with a remapped ECU, we in
effect are increasing cylinder pressure without
adding fuel. Increased cylinder pressure
translates into more useable torque and power to
maintain the power required for 'rolling
resistance' of the vehicle down the road. The
increase in horsepower often results in better
fuel economy--although we do not guarantee
mileage gains--as we cannot determine how YOU
drive, and what your driving habits are.
Diesels are a different story...we need to stuff
as much air in the cylinder as possible--and
create maximum cylinder pressure at diesel
injection point, use all the heat energy created
to maximize pressure while keeping the total
combustion event in the cylinder prior to
exhaust valve opening. Smoke is wasted
energy...in reality, diesels can actually run as
low as 100lbs of air to 1 lb of fuel--although
there's not enough heat energy created at that
ratio. There's no magic air fuel ratio for
diesel--leaner operation does not create damage,
it just won't make power.
Therefore, you need a
balance of fuel, best boost and proper timing to
make the diesel efficient.
Lyndon Wester, Owner,
Wester's Garage
Check
www.epa.gov for
fuel mileage hoaxes.
Here's
a good read from the Federal Trade Commission:
"Gas-Saving"
Products: Fact
or Fuelishness?
Gas prices are
up, and so is
the volume of
advertising for
"gas-saving"
products. When
gasoline prices
rise, consumers
often look for
ways to improve
fuel efficiency.
Although there
are practical
steps you can
take to increase
gas mileage, the
Federal Trade
Commission (FTC)
warns you to be
wary of any
gas-saving
claims for
automotive
devices or oil
and gas
additives. Even
for the few
gas-saving
products that
have been found
to work, the
savings have
been small.
"Gas-Saving"
Advertising
Claims.
Be sceptical of
the following
kinds of
advertising
claims.
The gas-saving
products on the
market fall into
clearly defined
categories.
Although the EPA
has not tested
or evaluated
every product,
it has tried to
examine at least
one product in
each category.
See "Devices
Tested by EPA"
at the end of
this brochure
for category
descriptions and
product names.
For example, one
consumer sent a
letter to a
company praising
its "gas-saving"
product. At the
time the product
was installed,
however, the
consumer also
had received a
complete engine
tune-up - a fact
not mentioned in
the letter. The
entire increase
in gas mileage
attributed to
the "gas-saving"
product may well
have been the
result of the
tune-up alone.
But from the ad,
other consumers
could not have
known that.
Product
Complaints and
Refunds
If you're
dissatisfied
with a
gas-saving
product, contact
the manufacturer
and ask for a
refund. Most
companies offer
money-back
guarantees.
Contact the
company, even if
the guarantee
period has
expired.
If you're not
satisfied with
the company's
response,
contact your
local or state
consumer
protection
agency or the
Better Business
Bureau.
Shifting Gears:
Real
Money-Saving
Steps
There are
numerous no- or
low-cost steps
you can take to
combat rising
gas prices. The
most important
place to start
is at the gas
pump; buy only
the octane level
gas you need.
All gas pumps
must post the
octane rating of
the gas under
the FTC's Fuel
Rating Rule.
Remember, the
higher the
octane, the
higher the
price. Check
your owner's
manual to
determine the
right octane
level for your
car.

Here are some
additional tips
from the EPA to
help you get
better gas
mileage.
Drive more
efficiently
-
Stay within
posted speed
limits. The
faster you
drive, the more
fuel you use.
For example,
driving at 65
miles per hour
(mph), rather
than 55 mph,
increases fuel
consumption by
20 percent.
Driving at 75
mph, rather than
65 mph,
increases fuel
consumption by
another 25
percent.
-
Use overdrive
gears. Overdrive
gears improve
the fuel economy
of your car
during highway
driving. Your
car's engine
speed decreases
when you use
overdrive. This
reduces both
fuel consumption
and engine wear.
-
Use cruise
control. Using
cruise control
on highway trips
can help you
maintain a
constant speed
and, in most
cases, reduce
your fuel
consumption.
-
Anticipate
driving
situations. If
you anticipate
traffic
conditions and
don't tailgate,
you can avoid
unnecessary
braking and
acceleration,
and improve your
fuel economy by
5 to 10 percent.
In city driving,
nearly 50
percent of the
energy needed to
power your car
goes to
acceleration. Go
easy on the gas
pedal and
brakes.
"Jack-rabbit"
starts and
sudden stops are
wasteful.
-
Avoid
unnecessary
idling. Turn off
the engine if
you anticipate a
lengthy wait. No
matter how
efficient your
car is,
unnecessary
idling wastes
fuel, costs you
money and
pollutes the
air.
-
Combine errands.
Several short
trips taken from
a cold start can
use twice as
much fuel as one
trip covering
the same
distance when
the engine is
warm.
-
Remove excess
weight from the
trunk. Avoid
carrying
unneeded items,
especially heavy
ones. An extra
100 pounds in
the trunk
reduces a
typical car's
fuel economy by
one to two
percent.
Maintain
Your Car
-
Keep your engine tuned. Studies have shown that a poorly tuned engine can increase fuel consumption by as much as 10 to 20 percent depending on a car's condition. Follow the recommended maintenance schedule in your owner's manual; you'll save fuel and your car will run better and last longer.
-
Keep your tires properly inflated and aligned. Car manufacturers must place a label in the car stating the correct tire pressure. The label usually is on the edge of the door or door jamb, in the glove box, or on the inside of the gas cap cover. If the label lists a psi (pounds per square inch) range, use the higher number to maximize your fuel efficiency. Under inflated tires cause fuel consumption to increase by six percent.
-
Change your oil. Clean oil reduces wear caused by friction between moving parts and removes harmful substances from the engine. Change your oil as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
-
Check and replace air filters regularly. Your car's air filter keeps impurities in the air from damaging internal engine components. Not only will replacing a dirty air filter improve your fuel economy, it also will protect your engine. Clogged filters can cause up to a 10 percent increase in fuel consumption.
Consider
buying a fuel
efficient
vehicle
-
Deciding which
vehicle to buy
may be the most
important fuel
economy decision
you make. The
difference
between a car
that gets 20 MPG
(miles per
gallon) and one
that gets 30 MPG
amounts to
$1,500 over 5
years, assuming
gas costs $1.50
per gallon and
you drive 15,000
miles a year.
Visit
www.fueleconomy.gov
for more
information.
You'll find gas
mileage
estimates and
other data from
EPA for
1985-2003 model
year cars.

EPA
Evaluation
Efforts
The EPA
evaluates or
tests products
to determine
whether their
use will result
in any
significant
improvement or
detriment to
fuel economy.
However, the EPA
cannot say what
effect
gas-saving
products will
have on a
vehicle over
time because it
hasn't conducted
any durability
tests. It's
possible that
some products
may harm the car
or may otherwise
adversely affect
its performance.
In fact, today's
vehicles'
emission control
systems are very
sophisticated
and complex.
They have On
Board Diagnostic
features that
alert the driver
to problems
associated with
the emission
control and fuel
delivery
systems.
Retrofit
products may
have an adverse
effect on these
systems.
Devices
Tested by EPA
The following
list categorizes
various types of
"gas-saving"
products,
explains how
they're used and
gives product
names. Those
with asterisks
may save
measurable, but
small, amounts
of gas. All
others have been
found not to
increase fuel
economy.
-
Air Bleed Devices. These devices bleed air into the carburetor. They usually are installed in the Positive Crankcase Ventilation line or as a replacement for idle-mixture screws.
-
Vapour Bleed Devices. These devices are similar to the air bleed devices, except that induced air is bubbled through a container of a water and anti-freeze mixture, usually located in the engine compartment.
-
Liquid Injection. These products add liquid into the fuel/air intake system and not directly into the combustion chamber.
-
Ignition Devices. These devices are attached to the ignition system or are used to replace original equipment or parts.
-
Fuel Line Devices (heaters or coolers). These devices heat the fuel before it enters the carburetor. Usually, the fuel is heated by the engine coolant or by the exhaust or electrical system.
-
Fuel Line Devices (magnets). These magnetic devices, clamped to the outside of the fuel line or installed in the fuel line, claim to change the molecular structure of gasoline.
-
Fuel Line Devices (metallic). Typically, these devices contain several dissimilar metals that are installed in the fuel line, supposedly causing ionization of the fuel.
-
Mixture Enhancers (under the carburetor). These devices are mounted between the carburetor and intake manifold and supposedly enhance the mixing or vaporization of the air/fuel mixture.
-
Mixture Enhancers (others). These devices make some general modifications to the vehicle intake system.
-
Internal Engine Modifications. These devices make physical or mechanical function changes to the engine.
-
Accessory Drive Modifiers. These devices reduce power to specific auto accessories.
-
Fuels and Fuel Additives. These materials are added to the gas tank.
-
Oils and Oil Additives. Usually these materials are poured into the crankcase.
-
Driving Habit Modifiers. These are lights or sound devices to tell the driver to reduce acceleration or to shift gears.
-
Miscellaneous.
* Indicated
a very small
improvement in
fuel economy but
with an increase
in exhaust
emissions.
According to
Federal
regulations,
installation of
this device
could be
considered
illegal
tampering.
** Indicated
a very small
improvement in
fuel economy
without an
increase in
exhaust
emissions.
However,
cost-effectiveness
must be
determined by
the consumer for
a particular
application.
For More
Information.
For information
about EPA test
procedures and
test results,
visit
www.epa.gov/otaq/consumer.htm
or write:
Verification and
Compliance
Division, Office
of
Transportation
and Air Quality,
Environmental
Protection
Agency, 2000
Traverwood
Drive, Ann Arbor,
MI 48105; or
call:
734-214-4925.
The FTC works
for the consumer
to prevent
fraudulent,
deceptive and
unfair business
practices in the
marketplace and
to provide
information to
help consumers
spot, stop and
avoid them.
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Watch for current additive
'scams' -- they become more prevalent in the
spring of the year.br />
AAs the weather warms up, you'll always get
better mileage!!
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